Refresh your Pet’s First Aid Kit
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It’s a fresh new year – and, if you’re like many of us, you’re sorting, spring cleaning, and goal setting like a Collie herding its flock. But, amid the organised chaos, take a moment to think of your furry family members. When last did you take a look at their first aid kit? Now’s the perfect time to give it a refresh. That way you’re prepped for whatever adventures the year has in store, from scraped paws to topsy-turvy tummies.
By Jenni Davies
A great first aid kit doesn’t have to be costly or snazzy – it just needs to be functional. Your vet or vet nurse can help tailor it for your pet, but we put together a step-by-step guide to take out the guesswork.
STEP 1 OUT WITH THE OLD
Start by sorting what you already have in hand:
- Expired medicines: Take them to your vet or pharmacy for safe disposal (don’t pour them down the drain or throw them in the garbage).
- Tired tools: Ensure everything is disinfected and reusable bandages are thoroughly cleaned with bleach or veterinary disinfectant.
- Exhausted equipment: Ragged bandages, rusty tweezers, grubby gauze? Bin them.
STEP 2 CHOOSE YOUR CONTAINER
The best first aid containers are waterproof, washable, secure against animals and children, and easy to open and close. Transparent material allows you to see inside, or at a glance, and internal compartments keep things tidy. Purpose-made kits are handy, but fishing tackle boxes, crafts organisers, or even a simple sturdy box works just as well. Be sure to keep liquids, gels and pastes well sealed – zip-seal bags keep any leaks from spreading.
Choose a cool, dry place for storage – and make sure it’s accessible so you’re not fighting through the camping gear to get at it.
STEP 3 GATHER THE BASICS – EVERY KIT NEEDS ESSENTIAL TOOLS AND BASICS:
Cleaning
- Non-fluffy cotton wool or gauze
- Pet-safe wound cleaning antiseptic like Effivet Skin & Wound Cleaner. Look for ingredients like chlorhexidine, hypochlorous acid or povidone-iodine, and avoid human antiseptics containing chloroxylenol and phenols, which are toxic for animals. Alternatively, use salt water (2.5ml salt:250ml boiled, cooled water).
Wound care
- Sticky plasters don’t work on fur – opt for sterile gauze wrapped with elastic cohesive bandage like Sticky Band VT which sticks to itself, not skin and hair.
- Compresses for bleeding wounds – sanitary towels are perfect as they take up minimal space.
Hardware
- Blunt-ended scissors for clipping fur from wounds, tweezers for removing grass seeds, bee stings and splinters, disposable gloves, a digital rectal thermometer (your vet can show you how to use it safely), and large syringes for irrigating wounds and administering liquid medicine.
- A quick-drying travel towel to wrap or cover a stressed animal, staunch bleeding wounds, and act as a makeshift stretcher. A foil aka space blanket is also a good idea.
- A muzzle – because even the gentlest pooch can snap when scared and hurting.
STEP 4 ADD THE MEDICINES
Over-the-counter (OTC) products can help stabilise your pet until you get to the vet.
Tummy troubles: Include probiotics like Probivet to rebalance upset tummies, a binding agent with diosmectite like Diomec Plus for diarrhoea, and a mild laxative for constipation and hair balls. Electrolytes are helpful, but by acting fast, your pet shouldn’t get to the point where they need it.
Poisoning: Pet poisoning treatment is complex – learn the basics as it’s easy to make things worse. Activated charcoal and diosmectite products can be helpful, like DuoTox. Used within 1-2 hours of poisoning, these can buy time to get to the vet by reducing absorption of toxins. (Do not use in metal phosphide poisoning.)
Wounds: A pet-safe antiseptic/healing ointment like Dermavet (only use on thoroughly cleaned wounds), and styptic powder – corn starch works in a pinch – to stop bleeding from small wounds like torn nails.
Eyes: Saline eye drops to flush out irritated peepers or Effivet Ophthalmic Eye Cleaner. Small quantities are best. (Important: Never use antibiotics or cortisone in eyes unless prescribed – they can cause blindness if used incorrectly.)
Ears: If your pooch is more like a sea otter, they’re at risk of ear infections, so a cleanser like Oticlear Plus or Effivet Otic Ear Cleaner are good additions.
Burns: Burns are common when it’s braai season and pavements are hot – include pet-safe burn gel or dressing.
Calming: Emergencies are scary for
pets, so don’t forget anti-stress options like Calmeze Plus Chewies for dogs and cats or homeopathic or flower essence calming remedies for small critters like birds and hamsters. The herb valerian, sprinkled in your cat’s carrier or bed, also helps them relax.
STEP 5 TAILOR IT
Consider your pet’s individual needs, for example:
- Tick-removal tools and paw balm for outdoorsy pets.
- Emergency medicine for pets with chronic conditions at risk of flare ups (your vet will need to prescribe this).
- Species-specific items, like instant cooling/warming packs for small mammals and birds, aquarium treatments for fish, and heat pads for reptiles.
- Their vaccination cards, medical aid details, veterinary treatment notes, and information on chronic medication.
STEP 6 LABEL AND REFRESH
Clearly label everything – emergencies can make anyone panic and forget information. Include:
- Product name and the date you put it into the kit.
- Opening date for partially used OTC products like probiotics or disinfectant.
- Medication leaflets showing dosage, side effects, and contraindications.
- First aid instructions in bullet-point format.
- Warning labels.
Remember to replace finished products and refresh your kit this time next year!
Our pets depend on us for everything – including quick action in emergencies. A well-stocked first aid kit and knowledge on how to use it means you can be there when it counts.
Safety note: First aid measures don’t replace a vet visit – they’re to buy time for you to get there. Always ask your vet for advice before using ANYTHING on your pet (including human-use products), especially if they have pre-existing conditions. Don’t give charcoal or induce vomiting if sharp objects, caustic substances, hydrocarbons (petrol, kerosene, etc.), or alcohol have been swallowed.
TIP! Print out contact details, address, and opening hours of your vet and nearest emergency animal hospital, and attach it to your kit.
Nil by mouth
It’s tempting to give injured animals food and water. But resist the urge! Keeping them warm is actually top priority – in fact, feeding shocked, cold animals can be fatal in minutes. Why? Shock causes plummeting body temperature and redirection of blood flow from non-essential processes like digestion. When food or water enters the stomach, blood is diverted from the heart and brain, worsening shock and possibly causing collapse or death.
There’s also a risk of choking or aspiration and hypothermia. Only stable, warm animals should receive food and water.
Why we use charcoal for poisoning
Activated charcoal isn’t the same as braai dust! It’s purified and highly porous, so substances get bound to its surface (adsorption – with a ‘d’), trapping it so they’re less likely to be absorbed (with a ‘b’).
Because charcoal can’t be digested, it takes the toxin with it when it leaves the body. Note that activated charcoal must be used within 1-2 hours of ingestion, and never in metal phosphide poisonings.
WHY YOU SHOULDN’T INDUCE VOMITING IN POISONED PETS (AND THE ONE TIME YOU CAN)
As many as 1000 dogs are poisoned every week in South Africa, usually accidentally with household products. Although your instinct may be to induce vomiting, it’s almost always a bad idea. Here’s why:
- Delay.
Every second counts – if trying to induce vomiting slows you down, skip it.
- Double Damage.
Caustic or corrosive substances (bleach, drain cleaner, cleaning products, acid) burn going down and coming back up. The same goes for sharp objects like bones.
- Aspiration. Vomit can enter your pet’s lungs, especially if they’re weak or disorientated.
- Danger to you. Rat poisons and pesticides containing metal phosphides create deadly phosphine gas when contacting stomach acid or moisture – vomiting releases this into the air, potentially poisoning anyone nearby. Other toxins also pose a contact risk.
- Wrong methods.
Salt water can cause sodium toxicity and hydrogen peroxide can ulcerate the oesophagus; any food and water worsens phosphide poisoning. Raw egg, mustard, toothpaste, milk or any of the other popular home remedies can all exacerbate matters.
- Too late.
Some poisons (rat poison, antifreeze) are absorbed almost instantly, so you’re just causing unnecessary suffering and delaying critical veterinary treatment.
So, when can you try? Only if your vet advises it and:
Your pet’s conscious and alert, The substance was ingested within the last 1-2 hours, The substance is “safe to vomit” (e.g. raisins or chocolate), and not oily, acidic, alkaline, caustic/corrosive, sharp or phosphide-based, Your pet is low-risk (i.e. healthy dogs) – cats and brachycephalic dogs are higher risk; bunnies and rodents can’t vomit at all.
