Top Tips for looking After Feral Cats
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By Bryony Van Niekerk
I have been picking up stray cats since I can remember. In fact, my entire family has – mom, brother, aunts, cousins. Actually, now that I think about it, I wonder if it is genetic? I have shared before that I am technically more Cat Mom than Dog Mom, but what I haven’t told you is how I came to be the proud (crazy?) mom to 6 cats.
As I am sure you have probably guessed, all of them are rescues; Tin Tin was adopted from a shelter, my brother found Malcolm in a basement parking lot, my cousin bestowed Ivy upon me who was part of a feral colony and then the three babies were all foster fails from a small informal TNR (trap, neuter, return) programme my husband and I started up during Covid.
When my husband first called me and told me he had found three tiny kittens under a generator at work, I never dreamed it would lead to a two-year long TNR journey where we sterilised about 10 adult cats and fostered and rehomed 30 kittens.
Deciding to set up a TNR programme is very rewarding, but it is also a very big commitment. Do your research and ask local shelters and organisations for advice. While it is commendable to want to feed ferals, if you do not intend to sterilize them, you are doing more harm than good. Unsterilised cats, especially females, who are well-fed, are more likely to reproduce, therefore growing the colony at an unchecked rate.
So, if you are willing to go all in- scratched up arms, early morning visits, vet appointments, kitten cuddles, teary goodbyes, then read on to see how you can help the feral cats in your area.
Tips:
Identify the colony
When you first notice a feral cat, it may be difficult to determine where the colony is located as they usually hide during the day and come out when the area is quieter and less people are around.
Spend a few days observing the area and look out for signs of the cat’s presence such as feathers from recent hunts and other potential food sources such as dumpers at the back of restaurants or shopping centres. Once you have an idea of the general area they are occupying, identify any potential hidey holes and safe spaces and note down when the cats are most active. Figuring out the colony’s habits will help you down the line when it comes to setting out traps.
- Food and water stations
Once you have done your recon, you can now go about establishing food and water stations. There are numerous ways to go about this and it all depends on your availability and resources.
One option is to put out food and water at the same time and in the same place every day. Choose a 45-minute window that fits into your schedule so that you can establish a routine and maintain consistency. The cats will quickly learn when food time is and will be waiting for you. You can then place food in various bowls, step back to allow them to eat and then remove the bowls once they are done. This method is beneficial in that the food is not exposed to the elements and ants and rats can’t get to it. It is, however, very time consuming.
Another option is to create feeding stations where food is left in large containers and filled every few days to a week. The station doesn’t have to be very fancy, a large plastic container with a small door cut out works perfectly. As long as the food and water are covered.
Remember to place the feeding stations or bowls in a quiet area away from people, homes, roads and areas where the cats sleep and do their ‘business’. Food and water stations
Once you have done your recon, you can now go about establishing food and water stations. There are numerous ways to go about this and it all depends on your availability and resources.
One option is to put out food and water at the same time and in the same place every day. Choose a 45-minute window that fits into your schedule so that you can establish a routine and maintain consistency. The cats will quickly learn when food time is and will be waiting for you. You can then place food in various bowls, step back to allow them to eat and then remove the bowls once they are done. This method is beneficial in that the food is not exposed to the elements and ants and rats can’t get to it. It is, however, very time consuming.
Another option is to create feeding stations where food is left in large containers and filled every few days to a week. The station doesn’t have to be very fancy, a large plastic container with a small door cut out works perfectly. As long as the food and water are covered.
Remember to place the feeding stations or bowls in a quiet area away from people, homes, roads and areas where the cats sleep and do their ‘business’.
- Trap, sterilise and return
Setting out traps requires some time, patience and forward planning. First off, find a vet who you trust or ask a shelter for recommendations where you can get the cats sterilised at a reduced rate. Many vets offer set rates for ferals well below what you would normally pay for a sterilization. Also call ahead and tell them that you will be trapping on a certain date and may be bringing cats in. You can also arrange for the cats to be vaccinated while they are sedated to help prevent the spread of diseases. The vet will also clip the tip of their right ear. This is the universal sign that a cat has been sterilised and is part of a feral colony.
Next you need to source some cat traps. You can rent them from a local vet for a very nominal fee or from organisations that help feral colonies such as Be Wise Sterilise. These traps are spring loaded, so once a cat steps on the sensor plate, the back of the cage closes behind them. Once you have the cages, set them up near the feeding station. Place very smelly food in the traps such as tinned pilchards to lure the cats inside. Cover the traps with a thin blanket as well. This helps to calm the cat once they are inside and also provides them with some protection from the weather. Always check the weather forecast before trapping. If it looks like rain, rather leave it for another day.
Don’t be discouraged if the cats avoid the traps at first. It happens! Keep persevering and you will eventually get them. It can sometimes help to take a break in between as well. Set the traps out for a few days, then take a week break before trying again.
The final step in the process is to release the cat back into the colony from where you caught it. It may seem harsh to put them back into the wild after a surgery, but it is the kindest thing to do and they recover quickly.
- Adoption
Removing the kittens from a feral colony and rehoming them can form part of the TNR programme, but it doesn’t always have to. Majority of the adults cats may never truly become domesticated, but the kittens most definitely can be tamed and make wonderful house cats (ask me, I have three lol). If you are going to go this route, only remove the kittens when they are between 6-8 weeks old. By this time, they are starting to ween and becoming more independent. Raising bottle babies is a whole different challenge on its own so only remove tiny kittens if it is life and death.
Make sure you have somewhere to put the kittens – be it a room in your house if you are going to foster them yourself, or a dedicated foster home.
- Get community buy in
If you are at all able, try and get the people immediately surrounding the feral colony onboard with the TNR and feeding stations. Talk to neighbours or shop owners and tell them what you are doing, why and the benefits. Give them your phone number and ask
them to contact you if they see any injured cat, a new cat etc. This is also a good way to recruit volunteers. Having like-minded people who can fill in when you aren’t able to, is a must and will ease the burden on you as well.
Rehoming kittens can feel like tying a little bow on your rescue journey, but before you say goodbye, it’s vital to make sure they’re going to safe, suitable homes. Sadly, not everyone who wants a kitten has kind intentions. “Free to a good home” pets are often targeted by people involved in dog fighting rings, backyard breeding, or even abusive individuals. That’s why we strongly encourage working with a registered welfare organisation when rehoming kittens. This will ensure that there is a register of the owner’s details, and that the welfare can follow up on the welfare of your kittens. A welfare group can help with:
Home checks – to ensure the environment is safe, loving, and suitable. Vaccinations & vet care – protecting the kitten’s health and preventing disease.Sterilisation – to break the cycle of unwanted litters. Adoption screening – to make sure the adopters are truly ready for a lifetime commitment.
It’s not about being picky—it’s about protecting the animals we’ve already worked so hard to save.
